We pass chunks of driftwood, washed up by the sea, bleached white by the elements. They provide a stark contrast to the black sand that surrounds them. They are endlessly fascinating to study and beautiful to look at.

Leaving the cabbage palms behind, we reach the beach proper. The first thing that struck me was the immensity of the place: the soaring hills in mist, a desert of black sand that is a reminder of KareKare’s volcanic past.

Continuing on our journey to Karekare beach…

We cross the black sand dunes, through strands of cabbage palms. The black sand is a muddy black after the week’s rains, but on a summer’s day the quartz glitters and becomes positively scorching.

Getting to KareKare Beach from the carpark involves a bit of a walk. Firstly under a canopy of kanuka (or tea tree to us Aussies).