One of the joys of the trip was the 1 ½ weeks I spent alone in the Japanese Alps. I had been really excited going to onsen (Japanese spa) towns for a soak among the mountains and forests, away from the overwhelming cities, and I was not disappointed.
After three culture-shocked days in Tokyo I headed out to the cool hills of Nikko, a small town north of Tokyo that was famous for its shrines as well for its scenery. While most people came on day trips, I stayed for two nights at the lovely Annex Turtle Inn. It was set by the river and had a magnificent bathroom!
Post-tour, I also headed out to the mountains, this time north-west of Nagoya. The Kiso Valley is surrounded by steep mountains, and the towns of Tsumago and Magome are lovingly preserved.
There weren’t any telephone or electricity poles in the towns to marr the view, and the effect was truly as if I had stepped back 100 or so years ago.
There was also a path, once the old post road (the Nakasendo) between Kyoto and Tokyo, between the two villages.
I spent a very peaceful Sunday morning walking the 7 or so kilometres between them. You can almost believe that a samurai will come walking down the path at any minute!