Stepping Back Into Time – Part 2

Life on the mountain is hard. It can get to -15C in the winter, and the terrain is challenging to say the least.

Gorgona Region

But the goat herders certainly know the mountains and their goats. The goats graze on the move, and the goat herders just direct them now and then.

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

Each herder seems to have their own technique. Some let the goats do their thing, some whistle and shout to move the goats along.

Gorgona Region

What they all have in common are their dogs. Each herder has several dog helpers. They lead the goats and also herd the stragglers. Most seem to be hardy mountain breeds, but there seems to be the odd mongrel.

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

These dogs were certainly the herder’s best friend.

Gorgona Region

Stepping Back Into Time – Part 1

The mountains that we visited are called the Rhodopes. It’s the home of the Pomaks, an ethnic group originally from Bulgaria, that are Muslim. They live mainly in little villages such as this one, all over the mountains.

Gorgona Region

The villages are usually on hilltops, because it’s close to pastures and aren’t subjected to the spring floods.

Gorgona Region

The Pomaks still live a subsistance lifestyle, growing vegetables, and tending their goats.

Gorgona Region

The goats are all around the hillside.

Gorgona Region

I heard their bells everywhere I went, and I would see at least one herd come past everyday.

Gorgona Region

It’s certainly a world away from modern Athens. I wonder how long this way of life will last?

Spring Time in the Mountains

Hubby and colleague P are studying gems in Thrace, the northern-most state in Greece. It is south of the border with Bulgaria and east of the border with Turkey, so ethnically, it’s a very different place to Athens and the islands. We arrived in time to see Spring come to the mountains. The blossoms were in bloom, the new leaves unfurl, the grass turn green, and the weather beginning to warm up just a touch.

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

Paranesti Region

Paranesti Region

Gorgona Region

Gorgona Region

Living in a (seemingly) evergreen place, it was nice to see the seasons change.

Eat For Greece! – Part 2

We finished our in Evia with a feast by the sea. Firstly, an array of fresh vegetables and dip. The ‘weeds’ featured again, as did beetroot (with its tops) and a cheese dip.

Day in Evia

Day in Evia

Day in Evia

And then, an extensive seafood platter. Here was my personal portion! Can’t say that Greeks aren’t generous with their servings.

Day in Evia

That finished off a lovely visit to my first Greek island. Don’t worry, it wasn’t the only Greek island that I visited.

A Day in Evia – Part 3

What else can you find up in the hills in central Evia? Lots of bees, who feast on the early spring gorse and other wildflowers.

Evia

Evia

Evia

Goat herder’s huts, and more goat herder’s huts. I guess they would make up little farmsteads of sorts.

Evia

Evia

And last but not least, the darling goats, complete with bells. These ones were roaming free in the hills, without a goat herder in sight.

Evia

Evia

Funny, aren’t they? This was my introduction to rural life in Greece. And it won’t be my last encounter with goats either.

A Day in Evia – Part 1

We spent a day on the island of Evia. It’s only 10km off the mainland and about 50km from the centre of Athens. To get there we drove to the port of Nea Palatia, a typical small coastal town.

Evia

Then it was on to the ferry for the 10km ride across to the island.

Evia

It wasn’t the best of days to be on the coast, being overcast, but much of the landscape in ‘middle’ Evia was relatively undeveloped.

Evia

There were some things along the way that looked typically Greek to me, like this mini shrine.

Evia

I had a dip on the beach, my first (and only) in the Mediterranean. Being only April, the water was limb numbingly cold. But I suppose it would be refreshing in mid-summer when the temperatures hit 40C.

Evia

Eat for Greece! – Part 1

I’m starting a series on Greek food, which I will add to as we travel around the country. I hadn’t eaten a lot of authentic Greek food prior to the trip. What I had eaten was very meat heavy, so I was very surprised when I got there to find that vegetables was a major part of their diet, and what we thought as ‘Greek’ (lamb on a spit, moussaka etc etc) was actually reserved more for special occasions. We were staying with a colleague of my husband’s, so luckily we had a local to show us how to eat Greek-style.

The appetiser is very important to Greeks, perhaps even more than the main course! It’s when the dips, cheeses, simply prepared veges, and other assorted nimbles came out.

Eggplant dip.

Athens Food

Meatballs.

Athens Food

Boiled greens with olive oil and lemon. The greens were apparently a kind of dandelion! Well, they were as good as any spinach or silverbeet, so why not.

Athens Food

Coleslaw, Macedonian style.

Athens Food

Hubby’s favourite – grilled banana chillies!

Athens Food

Our overall favourite – sesame and honey glazed grilled feta.

Athens Food

Served with some bread, it’s actually a meal in itself. The mains were mostly charcoal grilled meats, again prepared quite simply, and served with assorted carbs.

Chicken souvlaki with fried potatoes and rice.

Athens Food

Pork chop with chips and rice.

Athens Food

Sometimes we found something different. Lamb, tomato and risoni casserole was particularly good.

Athens Food

Athina – Part 5

Athens is certainly very rich in museums. You can find a museum dedicated to every age in Greek history. Given that I had seen a lot of Ancient Greece, I decided toward the end of my stay to see something more modern, although ‘modern’ is relative here. I’m talking about the Byzantine period, from 500AD onward. It was when Christianity first became the religion of the state, and when glorious pieces of art were first created in support of it. Many of these can be seen at the Byzantine Museum.

Byzantine Museum

As you can see, it has galleries full of beautiful Christian icons from the last 1500 years.

Byzantine Museum

Most have been taken from abandoned churches and monasteries – a good thing since works like this should be preserved, and seen. Unlike in Western Europe, where churches and cathedrals are tourist attractions, Greek Orthodox churches are rarely open to the public outside of worshipping hours, so places like this museum were the only chance I had of seeing these icons while in Greece.

Byzantine Museum

As you can see, the style of these works is, I think, much more intimate than those in the large Cathedrals of the UK. Perhaps it reflects the kind of worship and prayer of the East, where one’s relationship with God throughout history has and always will be a personal thing.

Athina – Part 4

I know I’ve overloaded you all with museums, but you can’t deny that one of the joys of travelling in Europe is the abundance of great museums. Athens certainly has its share, and thank goodness for that, considering its contribution to civilisation.

Today I am taking you to the National Archaeological Museum, which houses the major archaeological finds in Greece. Given Greece’s long history, it has everything from neolithic hand tools to classical sculptures and mountains of gold jewellery. This statue is an archaic depiction of the god Athina (which Athens has been named after), from the archaic period 2700 years ago. As you can see, the style is a bit more simplistic than those found on the Parthenon – not surprising given that Athina was created perhaps 500 years before.

National Archaeological Museum

Similarly, the men were also of the same style. One could picture the artisans honing their skills over the centuries to recreate the human image.

National Archaeological Museum

By the classical age, they were experts. Look at this bronze sculpture of the god Poseidon – exquisite. It almost could have been created yesterday – except that much of the skill to sculpt in such a way has been lost to technology.

National Archaeological Museum

There were room after room of really beautiful sculptures. It’s certainly a treat since Grecian sculptures are rare in Australian museums.

National Archaeological Museum

National Archaeological Museum

Classic sculpture

Then there were the jewellery from the Mycenaean tombs from 3500 years ago. These were excavated from the supposed tomb of Agamemnon (written about extensively by Homer).

National Archaeological Museum

National Archaeological Museum

Whether it was his or not, one thing for sure is that they loved their bling back then, as they do now.