Eat For Scandi! – Part 4

As I mentioned, we arrived in Oulu to cooler weather, but it didn’t stop us from having a barbecue! We were invited by Hubby’s friends, who lived in the nearby town of Kiiminki, to a barbecue by the river. The Finns love doing anything outdoors, so eating outside fits the bill. But instead of electric barbecues that are so common in public parks in Australia, the council here provided firepits and free wood.

Barbecue

Once the coals are glowing, you can skewer and grill your sausages as you like it. The Finns seem to have a thing for kransky (full-flavoured, smoked pork sausages) filled with cheese! Delicious, but oh so naughty.

Barbecue

And while we ate, we watched the river, full to the brim with snow-melt, rush by.

Barbecue

Barbecue

Two weeks later we were back grilling, and this time in t-shirts! By then the river had also receded. Spring has finally arrived.

Barbecue

Oulu – Part 3

We didn’t have a car while in Oulu, and so spent a lot of time on the buses and walking. One day after dinner at a friend’s place, we walked in the twilight back to our cabin. On the way, we passed a lot of birch trees, the predominant species in Finland. They were still rather bare in early May, but their pale trucks reflected the wonderful golden light.

Nallikari

We walked by a lot of water along the way. Oulu has been built on the inlet of a river, and the city has really embraced the water. Again, it’s a place that has been built into the landscape.

Walking to Hietasaari

The locals also love the outdoors, and take to it whenever possible, whether on land (nordic walking, cycling and rollerblading being favourite summer pasttimes) or on water.

Walking to Hietasaari

Oulu is also a growing city. It has a top-class university, forestry (still mainly traditional woodchipping – the chimney is for the pulp mill), and technology – Nokia has its research and development base there. It all requires new accommodation, hence the presence of these cranes.

Walking to Hietasaari

As we got closer to the coast, the sky became more spectacular.

Nallikari at dusk

Until it gave a fitting finale.

Nallikari at dusk

Oulu – Part 2

Our cabin was by the sea – well, by the Gulf of Bothnia, which flows into the Baltic Sea. We explored the area by bike and foot as there were excellent paths along this stretch. As with much of Finland, the area was flat, characterised by reed marshes.

Nallikari

Being so flat, it could also get very windy – a great place to put a wind turbine.

Cycling in Oulu

But it wasn’t all wild marshes. As I mentioned, there were also beaches – two that I found. One of them wasn’t all that developed, just a place to kick back and enjoy the sea.

Cycling in Oulu

The other was the main beach of Oulu. It had showers, toilets, decking, a cafe and lookout, even an American-style lifeguard tower.

Nallikari

But look carefully at the photo, what is that on the water? Could it be ice? You bet ya. It was the last remains of the winter pack ice. It made a spectacular scene at sunset, but it certainly didn’t look like somewhere to take a dip, at that time of the year, at least.

Nallikari at dusk

Oulu – Part 1

We arrived at the northern Finnish city of Oulu. It’s about 100km from the Swedish border, and 200km south of the Arctic Circle. We stayed a bit of town at Nallikari, a little beachside holiday village. Yes, it’s hard to imagine that people want to go to a beach this far north, but the Finns love being outdoors.

Our cabin accommodation was very cute, in typical Scandi practical style.

Nallikari

Despite its wooden exterior, it’s surprisingly warm inside, with super insulation and even vacuum-sealed windows. It has to be as in the winter the temperature can get to -30C, and the area becomes a cross-country skiing centre. The temperature had just peeped above freezing when we arrived, and people were cleaning up in earnest in preparation for summer. This included sweeping aside existing snowdrifts and raking up a winter’s worth of leaves.

Nallikari

The sun however still poked through, making for gorgeous spring sunsets, and neverending twilights.

Nallikari

The lack of proper night time was certainly hard to get used to. The photo above was taken at 9.30pm, and the sky darkened to a dark blue by 10.30, but it never got black. By 3.30am the sun was on its way up once again. The lack of real block-out curtains in the cabin certainly didn’t help things, so it was a long time before we got some real sleep.

The day continued to lengthen during our three weeks in Finland, but we didn’t make it to summer. The sun in Oulu at midsummer would only skim the horizon and make its way up straight away, making it day for almost 24 hours. It doesn’t seem to bother the Finns, who I’ve heard spend most of the summer at all-night parties to make up for the long winters.

Going North

We boarded the train north from Helsinki Central Station. The trains were very comfy, especially since we travelled first class. It had plenty of leg room, free wifi and reading material (although they were all in Finnish), even a tea/coffee making station.

Around Helsinki

We had little idea of what the Finnish landscape looked like, except that there was a lot of forest and water. Well, we got plenty of both. This is photo I took a few weeks later when I was in Lapland, but it showed the landscape we passed through during those 6 hours – forest, more forest, on very flat land, broken up by the odd swamp/stream/river/lake.

Around Lapland

To me, this seemed like the Arctic equivalent to the Australian outback, where you can pass through thousands of kilometres of red sand, rock, and low-lying scrub. This kind of landscape is vast too. It starts west of Finland in Sweden, and stretches across Russia all the way to Siberia and beyond. It would have been pretty hard-going navigating such a place for the early settlers, who were mainly hunters and woodsmen, since the woods were dense, and everything looked the same.

Suomenlinna – Part 2

Suomenlinna comprised of a few godforsakened rocky islands about 10km from Helsinki. It was well-fortified by the Swedes, as you can see.

Suomenlinna

With many cannons, all at the ready.

Suomenlinna

Suomenlinna

But although the walls were literally 10 feet thick, they were no match for the Russians. They besieged the fortress for two months before the Swedes surrendered.

Suomenlinna

Suomenlinna

These days, the islands are besieged daily by tourists, and the inter-city ferries from Helsinki to Tailinn and Stockholm.

Suomenlinna

Suomenlinna