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Lawn Hill Gorge – Part 4

Indarri Falls is a pretty popular place in the school holidays. But since we came in the late afternoon, and because the water was cool, there weren’t too many people.

Lawn Hill Gorge

We moored the canoe, put on our snorkel and mask, and swam in the cool water. I had heard that turtles, catfish and fresh water crocodiles lived there, but unfortunately all I saw were the ubiquitous archer fish. It didn’t however detract from the exhilaration I felt in swimming at such a delightful place.

Lawn Hill Gorge

We weren’t the only ones that liked this place. It’s a wonderful place to bring the kids.

Lawn Hill Gorge

Lawn Hill Gorge – Part 2

We canoed by sheer red sandstone cliffs.

Lawn Hill Gorge

Where gums precariously clung to life.

Lawn Hill Gorge

Despite there being numerous canoeists out on the water, there were still times when we seemed to have the gorge all to ourselves – and it was magical.

Lawn Hill Gorge

The area reminded me of my visit to Twin Falls Gorge in Kakadu National Park a few years ago, which also had sheer red sandstone cliffs, but there we travelled through the gorge by boat with a big group of tourists, not leisurely in our own canoe.

Lawn Hill Gorge

At Louie Creek – Part 4

From the previous posts, you can see that the landscape at Louie Creek is very diverse. So is the flora.

Unfortunately, it’s also overrun with weeds.

Louie Creek

Although the weeds can be pretty.

Louie Creek

The bark of the trees along the creek have interesting patterns which I have not seen before.

Louie Creek

But away from the creek this white gum ruled.

Louie Creek

But I liked the lilies best. Pity the flowers hadn’t begun to bloom as yet.

Louie Creek

At Louie Creek – Part 3

Sam and Opal’s story deeply resonated with me as I am also of Chinese heritage. My ancestors arrived on Bangka Island, Indonesia, in the early 19th Century. Like Sam, they also came from southern China, and like Sam, they had come to a new country because of mining – to work in the tin mines there. In both cases, they had to adapt to the changing circumstances and make the best of it. My ancestors moved up from mining to become book-keepers at the mine. Later, they bought a bit of land nearby and started a pepper plantation.

Louie Creek

Not much was left of Sam and Opal’s settlement a hundred years on.

A hand-made mortar and pestle.

Louie Creek

A few rusty tractor parts.

Louie Creek

The odd slab of sandstone from their homestead.

Louie Creek

However, it was enlightening to learn about this couple, and to know that their descendents still live in the district. It is people like Sam and Opal that make Australia what it is today.

Louie Creek

At Louie Creek – Part 2

We saw a memorial plaque dedicated to two pioneers of the region, Sam and Opal Ah Bow.

Louie Creek

Sam came to Australia from Guangzhou to mine the gold fields, ending up as a cook at Lawn Hill Station. He was ‘given’ Opal, a local indigenous woman, by the station owner, Frank Hann. A marriage ensued. Chinese/Aboriginal marriages were common in the Outback as both races were discriminated against. However it wasn’t only love that compelled them to tie the knot. If they didn’t marry, their children would have been taken away by the local authorities to be part of the Stolen Generation.

Louie Creek

Happily, that didn’t happen to this family. Sam and Opal settled at Louie Creek, had eight children, and cultivated the land into a successful market garden, saving many in the district from scurvy. Many Chinese families joined them, and Opal, a mid-wife, was also said to have delivered many babies at the settlement.

Louie Creek