Snowies – Wuthering Heights

When the ground evened out a little, we left the track entirely and tramped over the heath, through the Rams Head range – a collection of giant granite boulders and tors.

Rams Head Range

With the wind blowing at a steady 25km/h, there was certainly a bit of Wuthering Heights going on. The landscape was treeless, consisting of the boulders and tors, a smattering of pure white wildflowers, criss-crossing streams, and heath that was spongy underfoot.

Rams Head Range

The only trace of snow were the grubby snow drifts (grubby due to the dust storms of recent months).

Rams Head Range

I loved walking through this landscape, especially the boulders; its weathered, mottled surface warmed by the sun so that little ferns can grow at its base.

Rams Head Range

There was a beauty in this starkness, and a certain romance too, when you think that this was Man From Snowy River country.

Snowies – Dead Horse Gap

The highlight of my trip was the overnight alpine trek. Except for walking from the top chairlift at Thredbo to Mount Kosciuszko and back, I’d never walked in the Aussie Alps before. This trek was fully guided, and we didn’t have to carry more than a day pack because everything else was done for us! My favourite way to camp…

Ascent from Dead Horse Gap

Anyway, the journey started from Dead Horse Gap, a couple of kilometres west of Thredbo. Ours was a small group of three, led by a great guide in Nick. The gap he said has probably been used as a gateway to the high country by animals and people since who knows when, including brumbies (wild horses), hence the name.

Ascent from Dead Horse Gap

It’s a bit of an uphill trek as we climb through the strands of snowgums, with views all the way to the Victorian border.

Ascent from Dead Horse Gap

Snowies – Lake Crackenback

Welcome to the Snowy Mountains, the Australian mainland’s alpine region. It’s a unique place, considering how arid much of the continent is. Most Australians know it best in the winter when it is covered by snow, but being a non-skier, I think the place is more fascinating in summer, when the landscape is uncovered.

I had a great time staying at Lake Crackenback Resort. The view from my balcony was so lovely that even after 3 nights, I still didn’t want to leave!

This was the view that greeted me when I arrived.

Lake Crackenback at midday

The view in the evening at sunset.

Lake Crackenback at Sunset Lake Crackenback at Sunset

And at dawn.

Lake Crackenback at dawn Lake Crackenback at dawn

Sleepy Hollows – Brown Mountain

Not a village as such, but a mountain pass, and the end of the sleepy hollows theme – for now.

Brown Mountain is where the Snowy Mountains Highway winds its way up to the high country plateau. It is also features some impressive trees (mountain ash perhaps) that you can view via a little path from the lookout car park.

Brown Mountain

It was good that I got to see them, because there won’t be many trees for the next 100km or so as I drive across the Monaro Plain to Cooma and the high country.

So we leave the South Coast behind, and now you know what’s coming next – the Snowy Mountains!

Sleepy Hollows – Wolumla

I didn’t mean to stop at all at Wolumla, only that I thought I’d left something back at Merimbula, 15km away in the Bega Valley (thankfully I didn’t). After checking the boot, I noticed this interesting building…

Wolumla

The sign says “Gunpowder Trading Post”. I don’t think it’s within the law to sell such things anymore, but it tells you a lot about the history of the town, don’t you think?

Sleepy Hollows – Central Tilba – Part 2

Central Tilba is comprised of a series of restored miners cottages. They are very colourful, and very cute! It is no doubt a tourist area, remeniscent of the Southern Highlands town of Berrima, with a bit of Far North Coast new age style thrown in.

Central Tilba

The cottages themselves are lovely. My work colleague, a former country boy, was all very blase about my fascination with cottages, but they are lovely. Even the pub is rather cute! I really wouldn’t mind having one of these cottages on the edge of town, with a little garden, overlooking the valley.

Central Tilba Central Tilba
Central Tilba Central Tilba

Adventures on life's merry-go-round