We were up early the next morning, trying to catch Kata Tjuta (formerly known as the Olgas) at sunrise. But again, the elements conspired against us. Rain during the night meant that the cloud cover was substantial at dawn, but this time it actually made for a spectacular sunrise over Uluru, which was 30km distant.
My first glimpse of Uluru.
It was a strange seeing something so iconic: so familiar and yet not because I have never seen it in context. In pictures, I saw the red rock, but in reality there was also the red sand, desert oaks, spinifex and bloodwood.
Of course, being there in person also means that I saw the true reality of the rock: that it is a high profile tourist destination with a cultural centre, souvenir shops, and climb.
At the end of the day we gathered to watch the sunset. Unfortunately the sun was obscured by clouds, hence the muted colours. Well, you can’t have everything.
Full rendition of the White Album led by Tim Rogers, Chris Cheney, Phil Jamieson and Josh Pyke? I was intrigued.
I had the White Album on tape when I was growing up and listened to it every now and then. Plus I’ve had recent exposure to some of the stuff through watching Across the Universe. The artists themselves are an intriguing bunch. I’ve seen all of them play at various times (You Am I repeatedly), except for Josh Pyke. So why not all of them in the one gig?
I already knew that Tim Rogers was a fantastic showman but I think these songs showed him at his vocal best. Chris Cheney is a venerable machine when it comes to guitar solo. But the surprise packages were Phil Jamieson and Josh Pyke. I didn’t realise that Phil had such a sweet voice (I guess he doesn’t get to show that side in Grinspoon), and Josh was fantastic on the sweet McCartney ballads, especially Julia. But what impressed me most was the energy and enthusiasm that really brought the songs to life.
That night we stayed at Oak Valley, owned by a family from the Luritja group. Craig, the owner, took us on a little drive around the property…
… Teaching us about the Luritja culture and stories. Not just about the past but what is happening at the moment. He was very open and honest, as well as engaging. I think what he had to say impressed us all.
He also showed us some interesting rock formations. Looks very much like snakeskin doesn’t it? Maybe the rainbow serpent slithered through here?
One of my favourite weekend drives has to be down the coast, past Kiama, to the villages of Gerringong and Gerroa. Gerringong is the bigger of the two, with a substantial surf beach, shops and rock pool. It’s what Kiama used to be 15 years ago.
But even Gerringong has its secret spots. I discovered Boat Harbour on a weekend stay.
It’s a secluded, little cove with its own colony of pelicans, cow pastures, and a cute little rock pool that’s wonderful on a summer’s morning.
We took a walk in Ormiston Gorge the next morning: over the hill and into the deep gorge. The hills form layers, one on top of the other, towering above the cool river bed.
When we came out of the gorge, we saw a heron perched beside the river, contemplating the ancient landscape.
This is my second attempt at making madeleines using a different recipe. This one’s much better – the cakes are much lighter. Also interesting to see the effect different pans have: the darker cakes were baked in a metal pan and the lighter ones were baked in a silicone pan. Somehow I prefer the ones from the metal pan…
Time for another soup creation: a twist on good old pumpkin soup with a little green apple for added tang, a splash of cream for richness, and a sprinkle of Chinese Five Spice for flavour.
Glen Helen is deep within the West Macdonnell Ranges. We arrived late in the day to watch the last rays of the sun reflect off the gorgeous red rock, before having dinner under the stars.
I love the ghost gums that grow out of the rock, their white trunks standing out even in the twilight.
A bumpy ride brought us to the Finke Gorge National Park. This rock amphitheatre at Kalaranga Lookout reminds me a lot of the Wild West.
I love the colour of the rock, a rich red due to the iron ore accummulated through millions of years of exposure.
Static and Silence 