This will be a series on secret places in and around Sydney; places that only locals know of.
First up is Gordon’s Bay, in the Sydney Eastern Suburbs. It’s a little bay between Coogee and Clovelly that’s popular with divers and snorkellers. The coastal path passes through here, and I particularly like the old-fashioned dinghies lashed on to wooden racks.
We’ll farewell the Top End with another stupendous sunset cruise on the Coopers River billabong.
It was a profound, emotional experience, and I’m not the only one who feels this way. The wildlife, scenery and rock art are amazing, but above all, the cultural things that I learned that typically only happens when I visit a completely foreign country. I admit that this all comes at a price, but if you have an opportunity to visit Mount Borradaile, jump at it. Magnificent sunsets like this one awaits you.
This isn’t the end of my Northern Territory journey, though. Next up, the Red Centre!
I had thought the giant rainbow serpent impressive, but there was even a bigger surprise in store when Max brought us out on to a large rock overhang. He called the place (for want of a better name) “Major Art”, as if everything else was minor compared to this.
When we saw the massive wall, covered from top to bottom with paintings, I could see what he meant by it. It really was a history of civilisation.
Paintings aren’t redrawn but drawn over, so that the story remains. There were illustrations of spirits and detailed paintings of animals. There was a depiction of a sailing ship as well as guns that illustrate the arrival of westerners.
And there were hundreds of handprints.
That was just what was on the surface. As a matter of fact, the wall was thick with ochre. I was very moved, more moved than I’ve felt sitting in some grand cathedrals. The 50,000 years of civilisation, how many people have come here to illustrate their lives? It brought home that Australia is a very ancient country. Ancient and grand.
We went further into the bush, almost at the wetlands, to the catacombs.
It was all very Indiana Jones, as we went through dark tunnels, slipped through crevaces, and disturbed a cave full of flying foxes. Max showed us remnants of life and of trade with neighbours overland and overseas. An axe. A rosewood domino. Shards of Chinese pottery. A Dutch tobacco box. All untouched, as it was when the locals were moved to settlements 50 or so years ago.
The landscape of the Top End is so very different from down south, so it follows that the plants there are very different too. It’s fascinating to see the variety that exists, as well as finding out from Max their many uses.
We were given insight into traditional life of the clans in Arnhemland, like the proper way to do back burning (unlike the massive operations I saw from the plane): in the late afternoon and in a small area so that it will burn out by itself, as demonstrated here. That way the bush will have time to regenerate properly.
Static and Silence 