Tag Archives: arnhemland

Farewell to Arnhemland

Pretty soon it was our final evening at the camp (and a spectacular evening it was with our convivial camp hosts and guests).

Back to civilisation

And the following morning it was a fond goodbye to everyone before heading off to the airstrip in the troop carrier.

Back to civilisation

And then up in the Cesna, over the now familiar landscape.

Back to civilisation

We flew once again over the massive river delta that edges Kakadu National Park and Arnhemland.

Back to civilisation

And over the fantastic colours in Van Diemens Gulf.

Back to civilisation

Pretty soon we were back in Darwin, and civilisation. Don’t think we’d forget Mount Borradaile anytime soon, though.

Back to civilisation

Indigenous art and life – Part 6

One of the most interesting walls of art were ones that depicted contact with outsiders.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Among the hand prints and animal drawings was a sailing ship. The groups in this region would have known about white men very early on, first perhaps from the Makassan fishermen from Sulawesi, Indonesia, and then perhaps from seeing passing Dutch and Portuguese ships.

By the time the English came, they were very familiar with ships, as seen from the wall below.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Here, the artist has painted a steam ship in great detail.

Discovering indigenous art and life

The artist has even tried to copy writing (and almost got it).

Discovering indigenous art and life

They didn’t know that the outsiders would end up changing their way of life forever. Now we only have these remnants to admire and wonder.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Indigenous art and life – Part 5

It wasn’t just ceremonial sites that we visited — many were places where families had lived. Some shelters were vast and could have fit dozens of people.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Others were more cosy. The overhang below had comfortable sleeping ledges and a ‘kitchen’ area with grinding holes.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Here were grinding and cutting tools, and a bit of metal salvaged.

Discovering indigenous art and life

At another site, a message stick (a major communication tool between clans) had been left. I wonder what it said?

Discovering indigenous art and life

Indigenous art and life – Part 4

Unlike in Kakadu National Park, where the rock art is easily accessible with signs, paths, hand-rails etc, the rock art at Mount Borradaile has been left in its original setting (bar some light weeding for easy access).

Discovering indigenous art and life

It meant that getting to some of the art works was a mini adventure which involved perching on boulders…

Discovering indigenous art and life

Squeezing into crevices…

Discovering indigenous art and life

Or scrambling up cliffs into high overhangs.

Discovering indigenous art and life

But the effort was worth the while…

Discovering indigenous art and life

When you see generations of art on one wall.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Indigenous art and life – Part 3

Land animals were always very important to the Amarak. During the last Ice Age, the ocean would have been more than 100km away, hence they would have relied on these animals more for food.

Wallabies were common in these parts as they lived among the rocks, and made a good feed.

Discovering indigenous art and life

And goannas were often found up the trees and also made a good feed.

Discovering indigenous art and life

However, the walls also showed animals from long past. The thylacine (a.k.a. Tasmanian tiger) for example had lived in the area at one stage. You can quite clearly see its stripes.

Discovering indigenous art and life

And what about this bird? Is it an emu, or some other extinct giant bird species?

Discovering indigenous art and life

Indigenous art and life – Part 2

Unlike in Central Australia, where life and art revolved around water, the people of Arnhemland were more interested in capturing their fauna, which was integral to daily life. We viewed many paintings of animals, some recent and some potentially very old.

Fish was of course very important, since it was abundant when the water levels were high. The white ochre paint used and the intricate cross-hatching meant that the painting was probably done in the last four thousand years.

Discovering indigenous art and life

This dugong (a sea cow) has been overpainted with a pair of wallabies.

Discovering indigenous art and life

And this fish was so bright that it could have been painted yesterday.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Indigenous art and life – Part 1

All our adventures had been on Amarak land, lying east of the East Alligator River across from Kakadu National Park. The Amarak lived traditionally on their land until the 1950s, and the land had seen little use until Mount Borradaile was established in the 1980s.

Given that the Amarak lived on the land until relatively recently, there were many paintings and habitation places around the property that are well preserved. We were able to see quite a few in the four days we were there. Some were ‘mens business’ places – mens ceremonial places – as you can tell from these set of paintings – they’re all of busty women!

Discovering indigenous art and life

Others were of a more spiritual bent. This giant three metre long serpent was drawn on the roof of an overhang.

Discovering indigenous art and life

Being so close to the coast, the serpent had many shark/crocodile like features.

Discovering indigenous art and life

And was spectacular close-up.

Discovering indigenous art and life