I had little idea of what to expect when I landed at Mount Borradaile, only that I was going to experience something special.

No sooner than I’d put my bags down, I was whisked away down to the billabong in what turned out to be the daily sunset cruise. On the boat were the other 5 guests that were staying that night, plus Max (the camp owner), Charlie (the Aboriginal elder in the area), and Jim (a local Aboriginal guide, and mate of Charlie’s). A far cry from the packed-like-sardines cruise on Yellow Waters.

Small numbers are one thing, but as soon as we were out in the middle of the billabong, I realised that even “special” was an understatement.

The wealth of wildlife just on that relatively small strip of waterway, was frankly astonishing. Added to that was one of the most tranquil sunsets I’d ever seen.

I really was in heaven. But as astounding as the cruise was, there were more things just as wonderful in store.