We arrived at Takayama at the end of a long day, hungry and a bit cold – the temperature was near freezing up in the mountains. So we were glad to stay at Sumiyoshi, an ‘Antique Inn’.

It’s a ryokan set up in an old house, run by one family (grandparents, parents, children) with quaint rooms, plenty of antiques, and most importantly, good old hospitality.

Our main host was the grandmother (or obaasan, as the Japanese call their grannies), and she was a hoot. Outgoing, very friendly and jokey, she was bounding up steep stairs with our dinner, which was very homely and welcome after all the more high-end eating we’d done.

A few little appetisers – some sashimi, tofu prepared in various ways, and assorted pickles.

Fish and scallop cooked in butter.

Tempura vegetables with a wedge of ponzu.

And last but not least shabu-shabu hotpot featuring local beef.

A perfect meal to end a winter’s day.