Tag Archives: japanese

Royalty and the End of the Line

Well, all good things must come to an end, and this is the last post from our visit to Japan. To end, we slip back into the traditional with a visit to the Imperial Palace grounds.

Imperial Palace Grounds

We came expecting a European set-up, where we could view certain parts of the palace, but we soon found out that the grounds were the only place we could visit. It seems that the Japanese still hold a certain reverence for their royal family.

Imperial Palace Grounds

The palace itself, unlike its European counterparts, has always been out-of-bounds to the general public except on New Year and the Emperor’s Birthday. There certainly were no paparazzi hanging around the gates.

Imperial Palace Grounds

Nevertheless, there were some nice bits of garden.

Imperial Palace Grounds

A 19th Century Meiji-era bridge, walls and moat.

Imperial Palace Grounds

And acres and acres of park land of the kind where walking on grass is prohibited. There are in fact 3.4 square km of palace grounds, and it’s all theirs from top to bottom. No public road, even subway, has been allowed to go through it. And given that it’s in the middle of Tokyo, one of the most expensive cities in the world, I’m guessing it’s worth the price of a country or three.

Imperial Palace Grounds

It’s a shame, because I would think there were some nice gardens inside if this was any indication.

Imperial Palace Grounds

And so ends our visit to Japan. Even after three visits, it is still a land that holds much mystique. Would I come back for a 4th visit? Sure would, although I would like to explore the other islands next time, like Kyushu in the south, or Hokkaido in the north. What is certain is that wherever I go, I’m sure to have fun, meet very lovely people, and eat very, very well.

Imperial Palace Grounds

Asakusa – Part 4

Let’s take a break for lunch at a soba noodle restaurant. They’re a common sight in this part of Tokyo – and given that the district has one of the most popular tourist attractions, and thousands of shops to boot, it’s the done thing too go sightseeing, shopping and then eat these noodles. This restaurant was literally 50 metres from our hotel, and has a very traditional entrance.

Asakusa

Soba noodles are made out of buckwheat and wheat flours, and has a delicate taste. The best ones are handmade, and having once tried my hand at making it, I know that it’s no easy thing to do.

Now we cook it

They can be eaten hot, in soup, or cold, dipped in a soy and mirin sauce. Ours was accompanied by diced raw tuna.

Asakusa food

A delicious, light lunch.

Morning Markets – Part 1

The next morning Obaasan greeted us with a hearty (but not excessive) breakfast in our room – after the bedding was put away, of course.

Sumiyoshi

Then it was off to explore Takayama proper. First up was a visit to the Miyagawa morning markets across the river.

Sumiyoshi

Around Takayama

Around Takayama

The river was running fast, and the ‘koi’ (or Japanese carp) were feasting on whatever morsels they could find.

Around Takayama

Around Takayama

The temperature was around freezing that morning – so different from the last time I visited nine years before when the weather was much milder.

Feeding the carp

An Antique Inn

We arrived at Takayama at the end of a long day, hungry and a bit cold – the temperature was near freezing up in the mountains. So we were glad to stay at Sumiyoshi, an ‘Antique Inn’.

Sumiyoshi

Sumiyoshi

It’s a ryokan set up in an old house, run by one family (grandparents, parents, children) with quaint rooms, plenty of antiques, and most importantly, good old hospitality.

Sumiyoshi

Our main host was the grandmother (or obaasan, as the Japanese call their grannies), and she was a hoot. Outgoing, very friendly and jokey, she was bounding up steep stairs with our dinner, which was very homely and welcome after all the more high-end eating we’d done.

A few little appetisers – some sashimi, tofu prepared in various ways, and assorted pickles.

Sumiyoshi

Fish and scallop cooked in butter.

Sumiyoshi

Tempura vegetables with a wedge of ponzu.

Sumiyoshi

And last but not least shabu-shabu hotpot featuring local beef.

Sumiyoshi

A perfect meal to end a winter’s day.

Sights of Kawaguchiko – Part 2

Kawaguchiko is a tourist town through and through. There were plenty of large hotels by the lake trying to cash in on Fujisan.

Kawaguchiko sights

The town had a few quirky sights, like this sculpture.

Kawaguchiko sights

We found that the Japanese really appreciated geology. Unlike in Sydney where you’re lucky to find a mineral shop or museum in the entire city, there were little shops and museums everywhere. This museum had an extensive and impressive collection.

Kawaguchiko sights

And what is a town without a big event – like a marathon right in front of our hotel.

Kawaguchiko sights

But I think the meals, and its setting was a bit of a tourist attraction in itself. This was our dining room at the hotel.

Kawaguchiko sights

Our dinners.

Kawaguchiko sights

Kawaguchiko sights

And breakfast!

Kawaguchiko sights

In between, we just had enough room for a simple bowl of ramen.

Kawaguchiko sights

The marathon began on the morning of our departure, and we struggled against the tide of thousands of eager runners to reach the train station. No rest for us though, we had another train to catch.

Onsen Food

Breakfast at the onsen ryokan was appropriately lavish. This is Japanese rice porridge with many, many accompaniments.

Hanafubuki

And dinner was once again kaiseki style.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

The dinners here were definitely the best we had in Japan. They utilised plenty of local seasonal produce, and being by the sea, it included plenty of seafood.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

So very refined. There was also plenty of ingredients from the land too.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

And of course, there were some intricate desserts too.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

We were really happy after all that food! And a few kilos heavier too. Perhaps it was time for some exercise?

More Kyoto Feeds

Eating in Kyoto, of course, was more than just kaiseki meals. We ate much simpler meals too.

At a cafe around the corner we ate this meal of ‘yasai kare setto’ – Japanese vege curry set meal with the curry, rice, salad and miso soup.

Yasai Kare Setto

Down the road at a little izayaka (the Japanese version of a pub), the BBQ was going full-tilt, churning out all sorts of grilled things on sticks to have with our beer.

Izakaya Food

Izakaya Food

Izakaya Food

The restaurants often specialise in one type of food or ingredient. One night, we ate at a restaurant that was all about chicken.

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

One thing is certain, you’re never short of interesting eating options in Kyoto.

Time for a rest and a feed – Kyoto style

After all that sightseeing in Kyoto, it’s time for a rest, don’t you think? Time to check in.

Ryokan Tazuru

Tazuru is a modern ryokan – a hotel with Japanese-style rooms, o furo (bathroom), with breakfast, and even a kaiseki dinner. During the day, the room is the living area.

Ryokan Tazuru

We ordered dinner on the first night, and it was a dinner that was kaiseki style – multi-course, refined meal with dishes that are highly seasonal.

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

I must say that this was a huge step above the food we’d eaten previously that we’d considered to be Japanese, in terms of taste and technique.

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

There were familiar dishes.

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

And then rather more unfamiliar ones.

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

The rice was served as its own course with accompaniments.

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

Eight courses later, we reached dessert!

Ryokan Tazuru Kaiseki

After dinner, our room had been reconfigured to sleeping mode. It was comfortable, although Hubby was complaining that his knees couldn’t take getting off the floor all the time. Hmm, perhaps time for yoga?

Ryokan Tazuru

And in the morning, we were greeted with a very hearty breakfast of rice, fish, miso soup, omelette, among other things. That should get us through until the following dinner!

Ryokan Tazuru Breakfast