No peace in the forest

In preparing for the trip, we read the Lonely Planet Japan guide a lot. Its cover wooed us to visit the bamboo forest at Arashiyama, a place in the far west of Kyoto. After seeing some crowds the previous day, we thought we would be mentally prepared.

The trip from our side of town was via 2 trains, which was easy enough to navigate, but as soon as we arrived at Arashiyama station, we got a feeling that this was a pretty popular spot.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

The bamboo forest was a 10 minute walk, which we shared with the crowds. Others seem to have found a quicker way.

No peace in the forest

And of course, the bamboo forest was also shared with the masses.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

Although I was able to take some pretty shots of the bamboo.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

I’ve been told that Kyoto gets even more crowded at Hanami (the cherry blossom viewing season in the spring), which I can’t even imagine. So for those thinking about going to Kyoto (or even Japan for that matter) around that time and are wary of crowds, you have been warned!

Inner Sanctum

Kyoto was buzzing with visitors over the weekend, and on the main streets we were forced to move at a snail’s pace because of the crowds. But the good thing about Kyoto is that there are plenty of quiet places too.

Kenninji Temple

In the middle of the busy Gion district is Kenninji Temple, the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. It’s the area’s ‘inner sanctum’, if you like.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Most of the visitors headed straight for the temple itself, where there were amazing painted ceilings, but we were content to wander through the quiet gardens.

Kenninji Temple

There was a little shrine where people wrote the prayers on wooden boards.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

And as it was a zen garden, rocks were used all the way through.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

The scenes that I liked most were the little signs that autumn was in full swing in the city.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

We soon found out however that in Kyoto it was a luxury to enjoy such beauties in peace and quiet.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Our first destination was Kyoto – the former capital of Japan up until 1869. It was a place that I visited 9 years ago, but being at the tail-end of the tour, went by in a blur of temples. On this visit, things were taken at a much slower place.

We stayed in the old section, by the Kamo River, and had the opportunity to experience scenes from days past…

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Scenes from Old Kyoto

And from more modern times.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Admiring the Japanese vending machine

The old town had narrow streets that were intersected by picturesque canals.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Off the canals were what seemed to be hundreds of alleys full of restaurants, pubs, and entertainment venues.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

And being a public holiday, everyone was in a festive mood – many dressing up…

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Or even taking more traditional modes of transportation.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

A fascinating mix of a city.

Why trains are better than planes

Hello, I’m back from my blog break. I missed blogging and want to share my recent trip to Japan with you. I can’t believe that it’s been 9 years since my last visit – and I believe I have enough material to last through the summer!

As an opener, I’m starting on trains. We got a Japan Rail pass for the entire holiday period, and once again it proved to be invaluable for long distance travel. The standard for Japanese rail services have not dropped since my last visit. The stations are clean and safe, with plenty of food and drink purchasing opportunities.

Scenes from Japan Rail

The services were on time to the second.

Scenes from Japan Rail

And the carriages were impeccible. This is the ‘green car’ (ie. first class carriage) of the shinkansen (bullet train), and it’s much more immaculate than a business class cabin on a flight.

Scenes from Japan Rail

I must admit that I’ve been pining for some high-speed rail since our trip to Europe over 2 years ago, and we got our fair share of shinkansen joy. I loved zooming about at 300km/h, and we even get to see Mount Fuji if she’s not too shy.

Scenes from Japan Rail

We used the services between Tokyo and Kyoto a heck of a lot this trip (I counted about 5 separate trips), and I can’t believe how easy it is to get from one place to another. For example, Tokyo to Kyoto (514km) takes about 2h 40mins on the second fastest service (the fastest takes 2h 10mins), with up to 12 services per hour! I guess the domestic services don’t make any money along this corridor.

Spring Knitting Projects

I have finished a few things this spring. These socks I knitted for my good buddy, N. They’re in 8 ply and so nice and warm – perfect to wear around the house next winter.

Cosy house socks

My friend M’s son has just turned one, and that warranted another go of this quick project. Since the last time I knitted beanies I learned how to sew in a lining, and so this beanie has one. It’s now toasty enough to wear to the snow!

Little boy's beanie

Beetroot adventures

Over the winter we had a crop of beetroot on the go. It wasn’t quite ready to eat until spring, and then we had a glut! We could have done what we always did, roasted them and then tossed them into a salad with some sharp fetta and rocket, but one needs to be creative when faced with a glut.

First, I tried making these beetroot burgers, and they were fantastic. I varied the other root veg (used sweet potato) and spicing (replaced the spices listed with a teaspoon of curry powder), and cooked them until they were charred on the outside. We ate them ‘Asian style’ – with rice, steamed greens, and a dollop of Greek yoghurt on top. Spicy, sweet, and very savoury, it was a great alternative to meat.

But I still had more beetroot to contend with. This time I decided to experiment with sweet. I had seen many TV chefs mix beetroot and chocolate, and when I saw this recipe for beetroot and chocolate muffins, I knew I had to try them. Instead of a single square of chocolate in each muffin, I mixed through the same amount of dark choc chips through the batter. The beetroot gave the muffin a savoury-ness against the bitter sweetness of chocolate, and I felt less guilty eating a chocolate muffin knowing that half of it was beetroot.

Beetroot and chocolate muffins

I would try both recipes again next year when faced with another glut of beetroot.

Winter Knitting – Part 3

My sister-in-law, L, gave me some wonderful wool/alpaca yarn for my birthday last March from this great shop in London (gosh, I wish I had a shop like that up the road). With all my other projects it’s taken awhile to get to the yarn. I wanted to make a garment that I haven’t got yet, and this cowl/capelet/poncho in alpaca would keep my top half extra warm on these cool days.

Hydrocarbon cowl

I learned a new stitch (slip stitch smocking), practised a new way to cast on and off (tubular provisional method), and got a good looking garment at the same time.

Hydrocarbon cowl

It’s certainly very warm for its weight. It would be a good piece to take on future urban travels into colder climes.

Winter Knitting – Part 2

I like sock projects because they’re very portable. I took this project with me to Running Waters, although I didn’t end up doing very much because I was busy doing other things. I ended up finishing it back at home.

Fika socks

I used up some of the sock yarn left over from other projects here. They’re wool with a bit of nylon for strength, and have been great to wear this (unusually cold) winter around the house and while taking the dog out for her afternoon walks.

Fika socks

Adventures on life's merry-go-round