Tag Archives: nt

Garden of Eden

I had little idea of what to expect when I landed at Mount Borradaile, only that I was going to experience something special.

No sooner than I’d put my bags down, I was whisked away down to the billabong in what turned out to be the daily sunset cruise. On the boat were the other 5 guests that were staying that night, plus Max (the camp owner), Charlie (the Aboriginal elder in the area), and Jim (a local Aboriginal guide, and mate of Charlie’s). A far cry from the packed-like-sardines cruise on Yellow Waters.

Small numbers are one thing, but as soon as we were out in the middle of the billabong, I realised that even “special” was an understatement.

Mt Borradaile

Sea Eagle Lilies Spot the croc

Freshwater crocodile Magpie Geese

The wealth of wildlife just on that relatively small strip of waterway, was frankly astonishing. Added to that was one of the most tranquil sunsets I’d ever seen.

Smoky sunset

I really was in heaven. But as astounding as the cruise was, there were more things just as wonderful in store.

Bird’s Eye View

I’m not good with motion sickness. I get seasick within ten minutes of going into rough waters. I can’t read in cars. Plus I’m a little afraid of heights. So I wasn’t really looking forward to my flights in a single engine, six seater plane – the quickest way of getting to Mount Borradaile, a small safari camp on the western edge of Arnhemland, from Jabiru, Kakadu’s only town.

I had a nervous couple of minutes as the plane went airborne. So high in such a small thing! But I can’t deny that the views were good and interesting.

Ranger Uranium Mine Arnhemland escarpment
East Alligator River Burn off

On the way back to Darwin I was fine. A good thing because it was a longer flight, via Croker Island to drop some people off. This time I got a great view of the river systems of Arnhemland and the floodplains that surround them.

Arnhemland from the air Arnhemland from the air
Arnhemland from the air Arnhemland from the air

A Waterfall or Two

The next day saw us trek down a narrow, windy 4WD track to visit Twin and Jim Jim Falls. It was a bit of an adventure, featuring submerged river crossing, an encounter with a dingo, and a cruise through the canyon.

Beware... Dingo (didn't eat any babies)

… To reach Twin Falls.

Twin Falls Twin Falls

The waterfall was pretty with its white sand beach, but I loved the rock formations even more.

Twin Falls Canyon Twin Falls Canyon Cruising Twin Falls Canyon

I thought Twin Falls was impressive, but I hadn’t seen nothing yet. Jim Jim Falls involved a much harder walk, clambering over giant boulders, and swimming in ice cold water. But floating in the plunge pool with 200 metres of rock above me is an experience I won’t forget in a hurry.

Jim Jim Falls (actually it's a wall)

By the billabong

In the afternoon, we spent a lot of time on or by billabongs. Yellow Waters is cruise central in Kakadu, and even in the space of an hour or so, we saw quite a lot of wildlife.

There were the beautiful birdlife.

Jabirus

And of course, the ubiquitous crocodile (they really were everywhere).

Look at me! Rather big this one

Afterwards, we retired to our camp by a smaller and much quieter, although no less beautiful, billabong.

By the billabong

The Lightning Man

I left Darwin the next day on my Kakadu and Arnhemland adventure. The first 3 days were spent in Kakadu on a 4WD adventure tour.

It was a bit of a haul from Darwin into Kakadu. Our destination for the morning was Nourlangie.

Nourlangie

It gave me a taste of the Top End landscape – dry woodland against massive sandstone escarpments.

Nourlangie Nourlangie

It is the home of the Lightning Man, and the locals really did get it right, because this place does get the most lightning strikes in country!

Lightning man and wife Nourlangie

Again, like back at Newnes, the paintings were located under massive overhangs that offer protection during the wet. They are done in the x-ray style that’s typical of the Top End – very different from the dot paintings from the desert areas.

To Market

Mindil Beach Night Markets are a Darwin institution. On any given Thursday/Sunday night, it seems like all of Darwin (and about the same number of ring-ins) is there.

Thursday markets

There’s an interesting mix of food stalls, nik-naks stalls of all kinds there. It shows you the true breadth of Darwin society, which certainly is impressive.

NT barbecue More conventional food

There were also some interesting entertainment options, too. It being the Territory, there had to be a bit of wildlife involved.

Baby croc Brave girl

Dry Season Dining

Well, we’re at the start of a very long journey through the Northern Territory, folks, although in reality the whole trip was only a fortnight. I must say that it’s the most invigorating as well as enlightening holiday I’ve had since Japan.

I began in Darwin, where I touched down after a long 4.5 hour flight. God, Australia is big! After crashing on the hotel bed, the next thought I had was of food. I’d heard about Char, and since it was only 2 blocks from my hotel wandered down on a balmy Darwin evening.

Char, Darwin

Now this is what al fresco dining is all about! It was good to defrost after the chilly Sydney winter weather. It was also good to taste the pork belly and scallops, served with an apple peanut salad and chilli caramel sauce. I was tempted to try this after watching George cook up a pork belly/scallop dish on Masterchef. The skin of the pork was nicely crisp and the scallops were cooked perfectly. The salad and nutty sauce (along with a glass of Riesling), and it was a lovely dish for a tropical climate.

Pork Belly and Scallops

I followed it up with a Mango Panna Cotta with passionfruit cream. The panna cotta was lovely and light, but I think they went too far with the passionfruit here, which was too bitter for my taste.

Mango Panna Cotta

The restaurant seemed to be popular with locals and visitors alike and got very full, even for a midweek dinner. I’m just impressed that Darwin has such a sophisticated dining option.