Tag Archives: kakadu

Back to Mount Borradaile – Part 2

Soon we were away from all civilisation and flying over the wetlands of the Top End, crossing little rivers…

Darwin to Mt Borradaile

And much bigger ones further east that form part of Kakadu National Park.

Darwin to Mt Borradaile

It’s the end of a very good Wet season (the best in five years) so the rivers and creeks were still discharging water. This meant great conditions for barramundi fishing, and we saw quite a few boats from above.

Darwin to Mt Borradaile

I was also fascinated by the clouds and the patterns they formed down below.

Darwin to Mt Borradaile

After a bit over an hour, we descended into Arnhemland, and down to Mount Borradaile – a little bit of civilisation in the wilds.

Darwin to Mt Borradaile

Bird’s Eye View

I’m not good with motion sickness. I get seasick within ten minutes of going into rough waters. I can’t read in cars. Plus I’m a little afraid of heights. So I wasn’t really looking forward to my flights in a single engine, six seater plane – the quickest way of getting to Mount Borradaile, a small safari camp on the western edge of Arnhemland, from Jabiru, Kakadu’s only town.

I had a nervous couple of minutes as the plane went airborne. So high in such a small thing! But I can’t deny that the views were good and interesting.

Ranger Uranium Mine Arnhemland escarpment
East Alligator River Burn off

On the way back to Darwin I was fine. A good thing because it was a longer flight, via Croker Island to drop some people off. This time I got a great view of the river systems of Arnhemland and the floodplains that surround them.

Arnhemland from the air Arnhemland from the air
Arnhemland from the air Arnhemland from the air

A Waterfall or Two

The next day saw us trek down a narrow, windy 4WD track to visit Twin and Jim Jim Falls. It was a bit of an adventure, featuring submerged river crossing, an encounter with a dingo, and a cruise through the canyon.

Beware... Dingo (didn't eat any babies)

… To reach Twin Falls.

Twin Falls Twin Falls

The waterfall was pretty with its white sand beach, but I loved the rock formations even more.

Twin Falls Canyon Twin Falls Canyon Cruising Twin Falls Canyon

I thought Twin Falls was impressive, but I hadn’t seen nothing yet. Jim Jim Falls involved a much harder walk, clambering over giant boulders, and swimming in ice cold water. But floating in the plunge pool with 200 metres of rock above me is an experience I won’t forget in a hurry.

Jim Jim Falls (actually it's a wall)

By the billabong

In the afternoon, we spent a lot of time on or by billabongs. Yellow Waters is cruise central in Kakadu, and even in the space of an hour or so, we saw quite a lot of wildlife.

There were the beautiful birdlife.

Jabirus

And of course, the ubiquitous crocodile (they really were everywhere).

Look at me! Rather big this one

Afterwards, we retired to our camp by a smaller and much quieter, although no less beautiful, billabong.

By the billabong

The Lightning Man

I left Darwin the next day on my Kakadu and Arnhemland adventure. The first 3 days were spent in Kakadu on a 4WD adventure tour.

It was a bit of a haul from Darwin into Kakadu. Our destination for the morning was Nourlangie.

Nourlangie

It gave me a taste of the Top End landscape – dry woodland against massive sandstone escarpments.

Nourlangie Nourlangie

It is the home of the Lightning Man, and the locals really did get it right, because this place does get the most lightning strikes in country!

Lightning man and wife Nourlangie

Again, like back at Newnes, the paintings were located under massive overhangs that offer protection during the wet. They are done in the x-ray style that’s typical of the Top End – very different from the dot paintings from the desert areas.