Walk to Chatsworth House – Part 1

I’m back home, and I certainly have had a few adventures as well as taken a few photos. I probably have enough for posts for the rest of the year!

When we left off, we had just ventured through snowy Matlock and Bakewell in Derbyshire, but our destination for the day was Chatsworth. It’s the country home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and has been since Tudor times, but as a 19th Century literature and drama fan, Chatsworth is one of those places that come up regularly. It is mentioned by Jane Austen in Pride and Prejudice, and appears regularly in TV and film as either somewhere very grand, e.g. Mr Darcy’s house, Pemberley, or as itself (as in the film, The Duchess). I particularly visited Derbyshire to see it, and the day was a very big adventure indeed.

After walking to Matlock and catching a local bus to Bakewell, we took yet another bus that dropped us off at Baslow, on the northern edge of the estate – in the middle of a blizzard.

Walk to Chatsworth House

We crossed a bridge and ventured along the country lane to the entrance of the Chatsworth Park.

Walk to Chatsworth House

Walk to Chatsworth House

It really was as cold as it looks, especially with an icy wind blowing. But as we passed through the gates, the sun miraculously appeared, and what did we see? Sheep!

Walk to Chatsworth House

Lovely, black-faced, heritage sheep, grazing in the snow.

Walk to Chatsworth House

They didn’t seem to feel the cold at all. And the parkland with its old trees and pastures were so glittering in the sunlight and beautiful. As far away from dusty Australian paddocks as could be.

Snowy Matlock and Bakewell

We walked through the snow to the nearby town of Matlock. The cottages looked so pretty in the snow.

Snow at Matlock

Snow at Matlock

We took a bus to the town of Bakewell, home of the Bakewell tart and pudding. A market was in full-swing in the square, despite the snow.

Bakewell

The town’s architecture was quaint, with no power lines in sight. It was like being in a period drama.

Bakewell

But the weather got to us, and soon we were in a tearoom, drinking tea and eating the famous pudding. Incidently, the tart and pudding don’t really resemble each other at all, aside from the smattering of jam at the bottom of the case. The tart has a short pastry crust and an almond filling, while the pudding had a puff crust and a custard filling.

Snowy Derwent River

From our window, everything was white – the front yard, the stone fence, the footpath, the park…

Snow at Matlock

I went out straight away to explore. Luckily the fresh snow wasn’t slippery, yet. The B&B and the hillside behind looked like a classic Christmas scene.

Snow at Matlock

The River Derwent flowed in the gully below. On a summer’s day, it would be a nice place to sit, but not on a frozen, snowy day.

Snow at Matlock

Still, there were many details to savour – snow on the branches and trunks, for example.

Snow at Matlock

Snow on the leaves and ground cover.

Snow at Matlock

It was all so fascinating for me, even if it was freezing cold, so it won’t surprise you that I have plenty more snow scenes to share.

Snow at Matlock

Matlock Bath… and a Morning Surprise

We stayed at The Cables B&B, with homely cottage rooms, great breakfasts, and even greater dinners. It is half-way between the towns of Matlock Bath and Matlock. Matlock Bath is a tourist town that was quite forlorn out of season, while Matlock is a working town.

The Cables B&B

The B&B sits under High Tor, a granite cliff that towers over the river Derwent. This was our view in the afternoon upon arriving.

The Cables B&B

But we got a shock the next morning… snow!

Snow at Matlock

More snowy adventures soon.

Across the Pennines

We are heading now to the north of England, where it was distinctly colder than the south! After visiting some relatives in Lancashire, we took the train across the Pennines, the ridge of hills and mountains between the counties of Lancashire and Yorkshire.

Train ride across the Pennines

The ride took us from the old Lancashire town of Accrington, to the Yorkshire city of Leeds. Along the way, we passed through many villages.

Train ride across the Pennines

Many were built from local stone and dated back to the Industrial Revolution of the 19th Century, when many were mill towns.

Train ride across the Pennines

And we passed many pastures, moors, and snow-covered hill-tops. Spring-time snow, that’s a novelty for a Sydney-sider!

Dickens Walk – Part 4

In the middle of Middle Temple stands Temple Church. Like all the other buildings in the area, it is taken care of by the law fraternities, but its roots were once again with the Knights Templar in the 13th and 14th Centuries.

Temple Church

It is a beautiful, light old church, modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It had wonderful stained glass windows and a round vaulted ceiling that made the interior so bright.

Temple Church

Temple Church

The founders of the church were also buried here. Their final resting places still maintained even after 800 years.

Temple Church

Dickens Walk – Part 3

The law was also a subplot in the novel Our Mutual Friend, and some of the action was focused on the Temple area. Eugene Wrayburn and his friend Mortimer Lightwood had their chambers here, and it was where school master Bradley Headstone stalked Wrayburn night after night. The gate below leads from the river into Middle Temple.

Middle Temple Lane

The Inner and Middle Temples are now filled with law chambers, but there was a time when the area belonged to the Knights Templar, hence the name. Consequently, it’s one of the oldest lanes still existing in London today. In the late afternoon, it’s a peaceful place for a stroll.

Middle Temple Lane

Dickens Walk – Part 1

It seems like most of my posts from London have been about the past. Well, I’m not going to stop now!

Being in London, one 19th Century author’s novels became very real – Mr. Charles Dickens. It hit me every day as I walked through the East End that I was walking the same streets that he, and his characters, walked – Fagin’s Saffron Hill and Bleeding Heart Yard in Little Dorrit is literally around the corner. But I’m not going to linger on the East End in this series of posts, but on the law district of London, which form the core of many of Dickens’s novels, such as Bleak House and Our Mutual Friend.

The first place is Lincoln’s Inn, where the old courts of the Chancery used to be. Below is the ‘new’ hall, built in the 19th Century. The old hall across the way was built in Tudor times and was used for chancery sittings up until then.

Lincoln's Inn

The Court of Chancery was the focus of Bleak House. It was where wills were contested and settled – except that cases could last a lifetime, or even several lifetimes – and people literally went insane waiting for a settlement that never came.

On a sunny spring-ish day, all of this bleakness seemed a bit far off, if it weren’t for the fleets of lawyers trundling boxes and folders to court.

Adventures on life's merry-go-round