Tag Archives: travel

On the Train Again

Our visit to Izu-Kogen concluded all too quickly, and we were once again at the station, taking multiple trains, one of which was of course the shinkansen.

Scenes from Japan Rail

Scenes from Japan Rail

For those who have never taken a high-speed train, I took a little video at one of our transit points, Atami Station. It’s a taste of how fast those trains go, and shows a little of what goes on at a Japanese train station.

Notice:
1. Speed of train, and how nonchalant everyone is about it.
2. Barriers between the platform and the track – rather a good idea.
3. People still go around in Japanese dress – even while travelling.
4. The station master’s pointing routine in the background. It’s a Japanese thing to ensure that everything is done according to plan.

It was a rather long day on 5 separate services. The last was an all-stations service full of noisy high school kids. We were rather glad near the end to see this, our destination.

Glimpses of Fujisan

From the Forest to the Sea – Part 1

After all that food at the onsen, we really needed a walk. Luckily, the onsen had that covered too – the next morning we joined their free guided walk down to the Jogasaki Coast.

The first part of the walk was by a fast-flowing river that ran through some spectacular forest.

Jogasaki Coast Walk

Jogasaki Coast Walk

It was a temperate rainforest, and there were plenty of details to take in.

Jogasaki Coast Walk

Jogasaki Coast Walk

Jogasaki Coast Walk

We even saw a lovely-looking spider. These guys aren’t deadly, but they do make you pretty sick. Luckily they are pretty tame, unlike some of its Aussie relatives.

Jogasaki Coast Walk

We followed the river until it tumbled into the sea.

Jogasaki Coast Walk

Jogasaki Coast Walk

And then, what did we find?

Onsen Food

Breakfast at the onsen ryokan was appropriately lavish. This is Japanese rice porridge with many, many accompaniments.

Hanafubuki

And dinner was once again kaiseki style.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

The dinners here were definitely the best we had in Japan. They utilised plenty of local seasonal produce, and being by the sea, it included plenty of seafood.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

So very refined. There was also plenty of ingredients from the land too.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

And of course, there were some intricate desserts too.

Hanafubuki

Hanafubuki

We were really happy after all that food! And a few kilos heavier too. Perhaps it was time for some exercise?

Shogun Castle

When we went to Europe a few years ago, we got a good dose of historical buildings. The Japanese have their fair share of them too, and it was good to be able to get inside a grand, old one.

There are a few to choose from in Kyoto, being the old imperial capital. We chose to go to Nijo-jo – Nijo Castle – the headquarters of the Tokugawa Shogun. This clan held complete power, even over the Emperor, for over 250 years.

Nijo-Jo Castle

As you can see just by the outer moat and guard-house, they liked things big!

Nijo-Jo Castle

Nijo-Jo Castle

We visited Ninomaru Palace, one of the palaces in the complex. The entry gate was appropriately grand.

Nijo-Jo Castle

Nijo-Jo Castle

It’s certainly a place to dress up for.

Nijo-Jo Castle

We got into the palace grounds proper, and the castle was definitely of a large size. We weren’t allowed to take any photos, but we can report that there were large, airy reception rooms with beautifully painted walls and ceilings. In the Japanese style, it was tastefully minimalist compared to Western, or even other Asian palaces. We particularly liked the squeeky floor boards – a security measure against ninjas!

Nijo-Jo Castle

The gardens around the palace were also lovely to walk around.

Nijo-Jo Castle

Nijo-Jo Castle

Particularly since the trees were turning.

Nijo-Jo Castle

Nijo-Jo Castle

Nijo-Jo Castle

That’s all from Kyoto. Wishing everyone a merry and safe Christmas. After Christmas we’ll travel to somewhere new in Japan!

Nijo-Jo Castle

More Kyoto Feeds

Eating in Kyoto, of course, was more than just kaiseki meals. We ate much simpler meals too.

At a cafe around the corner we ate this meal of ‘yasai kare setto’ – Japanese vege curry set meal with the curry, rice, salad and miso soup.

Yasai Kare Setto

Down the road at a little izayaka (the Japanese version of a pub), the BBQ was going full-tilt, churning out all sorts of grilled things on sticks to have with our beer.

Izakaya Food

Izakaya Food

Izakaya Food

The restaurants often specialise in one type of food or ingredient. One night, we ate at a restaurant that was all about chicken.

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

Chicken Yakitori Banquet

One thing is certain, you’re never short of interesting eating options in Kyoto.

Monkeying Around Again

By the time we reached the top of Iwatayama, we saw that we were quite high above it all.

View from Iwatayama

And it’s at this altitude that we find the Iwatayama Monkey Park, a sanctuary for Japanese macaques (or snow monkeys). I’ve met these monkeys before, at Jigokudani near Nagano. This sanctuary might not have hot springs, but the monkeys still run wild and free.

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Because the monkeys are wild, humans aren’t allowed to approach, feed or make eye contact with them in the open. So for those who really want to get up close, a cage is provided to keep you safe!

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Still it’s all ‘kawaii’ (cute) and it’s interesting how they all interact with each other – and with us.

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Peace at Last

Actually, it wasn’t too difficult to find a bit of peace in Arashiyama. After we walked out of the bamboo forest and into nearby Kameyama Park, we found it straight away.

I wouldn’t say that autumn was in full swing at the time, but we enjoyed a few trees that were giving up their colour.

Kameyama Park

Kameyama Park

Kameyama Park

We walked down the hill to the Oi River, and there we found ‘fire’ and water side by side.

By the Oi River

Quite a few people on the water enjoying the scenes.

By the Oi River

By the Oi River

By the Oi River

But we were content to wander along the relatively quiet paths and enjoy the scene on dry land.

By the Oi River

No peace in the forest

In preparing for the trip, we read the Lonely Planet Japan guide a lot. Its cover wooed us to visit the bamboo forest at Arashiyama, a place in the far west of Kyoto. After seeing some crowds the previous day, we thought we would be mentally prepared.

The trip from our side of town was via 2 trains, which was easy enough to navigate, but as soon as we arrived at Arashiyama station, we got a feeling that this was a pretty popular spot.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

The bamboo forest was a 10 minute walk, which we shared with the crowds. Others seem to have found a quicker way.

No peace in the forest

And of course, the bamboo forest was also shared with the masses.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

Although I was able to take some pretty shots of the bamboo.

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

No peace in the forest

I’ve been told that Kyoto gets even more crowded at Hanami (the cherry blossom viewing season in the spring), which I can’t even imagine. So for those thinking about going to Kyoto (or even Japan for that matter) around that time and are wary of crowds, you have been warned!

Inner Sanctum

Kyoto was buzzing with visitors over the weekend, and on the main streets we were forced to move at a snail’s pace because of the crowds. But the good thing about Kyoto is that there are plenty of quiet places too.

Kenninji Temple

In the middle of the busy Gion district is Kenninji Temple, the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. It’s the area’s ‘inner sanctum’, if you like.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Most of the visitors headed straight for the temple itself, where there were amazing painted ceilings, but we were content to wander through the quiet gardens.

Kenninji Temple

There was a little shrine where people wrote the prayers on wooden boards.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

And as it was a zen garden, rocks were used all the way through.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

The scenes that I liked most were the little signs that autumn was in full swing in the city.

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

Kenninji Temple

We soon found out however that in Kyoto it was a luxury to enjoy such beauties in peace and quiet.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Our first destination was Kyoto – the former capital of Japan up until 1869. It was a place that I visited 9 years ago, but being at the tail-end of the tour, went by in a blur of temples. On this visit, things were taken at a much slower place.

We stayed in the old section, by the Kamo River, and had the opportunity to experience scenes from days past…

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Scenes from Old Kyoto

And from more modern times.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Admiring the Japanese vending machine

The old town had narrow streets that were intersected by picturesque canals.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Off the canals were what seemed to be hundreds of alleys full of restaurants, pubs, and entertainment venues.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

And being a public holiday, everyone was in a festive mood – many dressing up…

Scenes from Old Kyoto

Or even taking more traditional modes of transportation.

Scenes from Old Kyoto

A fascinating mix of a city.