We made a visit to Takayama Jinya – the old administrative ‘office’ of the region during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Inside, it’s a little like Nijo castle in Kyoto – a series of interconnecting rooms and buildings, surrounded by gardens – except a little less grand.

The weather can be extremely wild up in the mountains, so even the roof tiles were weighed down.

The museum gave us a glimpse into life at the time for those at the top and the bottom of the heap. Very important people were carried in these sedan boxes.

Criminals were carried and kept in these more humble (and uncomfortable) cages, and were subjected to all sorts of painful punishments. I wouldn’t want a run-in with the law in those days.

Takayama is a town of two halves. From above, it looks in every way a modern town.

But in its heart is a very old town.

The town was founded in the 17th Century, and being surrounded by 3,000 metre high mountains, was virtually cut-off from the outside world during the long winter months. The buildings in the old town are low to the ground, and the weathered wood gives the town a very earthy, cosy feel. Very different from imperial Kyoto, or even Kawaguchiko where you can see the sacred Mount Fuji from every street.