Tag Archives: kimberley

The Gibb River Road (End)

The end of the day came at our campsite at Windjana Gorge by the campfire.

Windjana Gorge

It was made even more spectacular against the backdrop of the gorge. It became my final picture of the day.

Windjana Gorge

The final day, we made our way back to Highway One, although there were still a few sights to see along the way, like this very long cattle trough at Myalls Bore.

Myalls bore and cattle trough

By morning tea we were back on the Indian Ocean at Derby – a sleepy town compared to Broome with a long jetty, mud flats and 10 metre tides.

Old jetty/wharf

Derby coast

And by afternoon tea, we were back in Broome and ‘civilisation’ and the end of our fortnight in the Kimberley. I hope you enjoyed the journey. It was certainly more than a series of grand landscapes – it was a place of rich and deep history, too.

Jandamarra’s Path – Part 4

We’re on the final stage of Jandamarra’s story. After being severely wounded in the siege at Windjana Gorge, Jandamarra retreated into the hills and caves that he knew around the Napier Ranges. One of his hideouts was our next destination – Tunnel Creek. It was from here that he conducted more of his raids on the surrounding properties. The local police for years after had trouble locating him. We’ll soon see why.

We walked along a sandy track, and then around large boulders, down to the cave entrance.

Tunnel Creek

It was cool, wet and sandy inside the cave. In fact, a creek flowed through it (hence the name). It’s a sanctuary also for freshwater crocodiles in places, though we didn’t see any.

Tunnel Creek

The deeper we walked into the cave, the more interesting the cave formations were. There were even some micro bats living in the rafters of some places.

Tunnel Creek

Tunnel Creek

Half-way through, there was a part of the cave that had fallen in, giving us a glimpse of daylight.

Tunnel Creek

And then more daylight – we reached the opposite end and had walked right through the Napier Range! Obviously, Jandamarra used this place to great effect after his raids. So effective was he many people thought that he held supernatural powers.

Tunnel Creek

But he eventually ran out of time. The police eventually found his hideaway, and he was shot dead at the entrance of Tunnel Creek. He might have died almost 120 years ago, but his story has not been forgotten by the Bunuba people. Now others have the opportunity to learn of this piece of Australian history.

Tunnel Creek

Jandamarra’s Path – Part 3

Entering Windjana Gorge, I immediately realised that this was a sacred place.

Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge

The high walls of the gorge kept out the heat of the day, and there was plenty of water, even in the dry. It’s a sanctuary for all sorts of wildlife, including freshwater crocodiles.

Windjana Gorge

There were so many of them, floating like little logs.

Windjana Gorge

Some got closer than others.

Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge

But despite the serenity of the place, this was where Jandamarra and his people (numbering fifty or so warriors it was said), fought the pastoralists and police in a bloody battle. Jandamarra was severely wounded, but escaped into the caves not too far away from here.

Windjana Gorge

Jandamarra’s Path – Part 2

We continue Jandamarra’s story at the Lillimooloora Police Station, where Jandamarra worked. Being continually exposed to the trials of his people took its toll. He killed his police constable while he slept and released the prisoners. Together, they planned to defend Bunuba land against all outsiders. Many being former stockmen, the rode and shot very well, and their knowledge of the country meant they were hard to even pinpoint as they waged guerilla warfare on the pastoralists. In retaliation, the police hunted down and killed many Aboriginals.

Things came to a head at Windjana Gorge, which we visited one hot afternoon. The cliff face loomed 100 meters above us.

Windjana Gorge

The kapok trees were in fruit and whistling kites were circling.

Windjana Gorge

The entrance to the gorge was via a narrow crevice. This may have well been used in Jandamarra’s time 120 years ago.

Windjana Gorge

And the walls showed creatures that had lived in what was the Devonian equivalent of the Great Barrier Reef.

Windjana Gorge

Jandamarra’s Path – Part 1

Our last stop the Oscar and Napier ranges, and our trip came full circle. The Napier Range downstream runs through Geikie Gorge on our first day on the road. This time around, we learned how each place related to the custodians of the land, the Bunuba people, and particularly learned about the history of their leader, Jandamarra.

Jandamarra was born in the 1870s just as the first pastoralists were setting up cattle stations in Bunuba country. He grew up being at ease in both camps, black and white, but many of his people weren’t so lucky and fell foul of white law which they didn’t understand. Blackfella law states that you are to share everything that you have, while white law is built around knowing whose property is whose. So the first people incarcerated for ‘cattle rustling’ were probably breaking the law unknowingly. They were chained and jailed in places like Lillimooloora homestead (now in ruins), where there was a makeshift police station.

Lillimooloora Police Station

Then they were marched 113km to Derby, where they were housed in the prison boab outside of town…

Boab prison tree

Or in the open air prison in Derby itself.

Old Derby prison

Jandamarra, who worked at Lillimooloora as a police tracker, must have seen some deplorable things done to his people.

Kimberley Swims – Part 2

Our afternoon swim was particularly scenic at the very pretty Bell Gorge in the middle of the King Leopold Range. It was about a 1km walk from the car park, and on the way we passed many a ghostly boab.

Bell Gorge

Our first glimpse of Bell Gorge was of a tranquil pool amidst the red ochre of the King Leopold Range.

Bell Gorge

Time for a dip! The pool wasn’t very deep up top.

Bell Gorge

You could even peer over the edge of the waterfall (the current wasn’t strong at all).

Bell Gorge

Others took a steep track to the bottom pool. I didn’t go however those who did said it was nice and deep.

Bell Gorge

Another nice end to the day.

Kimberley Swims – Part 1

We’re on the home run back to Broome now, and the weather also got hotter – way over 30C maximums required a cool down so I’ll give you a rundown on swimming stops we visited.

First up was Miner’s Creek on Drysdale River station. Sandy bottomed and quite deep in places, it was a pleasant place to swim. It however had a metre long freshwater croc on the bottom and what I thought was a mischievous spirit. We were told by our guide to introduce ourselves as some strange things have happened to him on previous visits – like his air-conditioner breaking down for no reason. I had my own experience – my retractable walking stick refused to retract for several days!

Miner's Creek

A hundred or so kilometers down the track was Galvans Gorge with a pretty swimming hole, and pretty lotus flowers. The swimming hole was very deep, and the steep sandstone cliffs proved irresistible to leap from for some – not a good idea though as there were some hidden rocks at the bottom.

Galvans Gorge

Galvans Gorge

Mitchell Falls – Part 5

And as a final treat, we got to ride a helicopter back to the start of the walk.

Mitchell Falls Walk

We strapped ourselves in, since the back seat was once again door-less.

Mitchell Falls Walk

But the view of the falls was priceless.

Mitchell Falls Walk

Mitchell Falls Walk

With all that blue water, you would think that the falls are a good place for a dip. You can swim, but only in the upper pools – saltwater crocodiles may be lurking in the lower pools.

We got a bird’s eye view of the track we had walked on.

Mitchell Falls Walk

And five minutes later, we touched down!

Mitchell Falls Walk

The falls (and the helicopter) was my picture of the day.

Mitchell Falls Walk